Wednesday, April 8, 2009

The Grass is Always Greener

Spring is a great season up here, the days are longer (yes, we've surpassed NorCal sunlight) and we get plenty of overhead swell and relatively benign winds (don't even get me started on summer). These pics are from Saturday: Jer behind the lens and John_B in the water. I wonder how much longer it will stay this uncrowded up here? Sometimes, I wonder why I want to leave? Then I miss a good day like this, 'stuck' 2 1/2 hrs. from the waves, having the time of my life with an awesome girl and great friends in an otherwise rad city. At that point, all I can do is bitterly concede that I would probably trade an empty line-up with my buddies a couple days a week, for getting to surf twice as often if it meant dealing with some level of crowd. I guess that's part of the habit; after years of chasing the dragon's tail, we develop a certain tolerance for stoke which defines the basic surfers' dilemma and defies all but the most temporary satisfaction. Old and grumpy here I come.



2 comments:

  1. looks like a fun right, what is that little board that you are riding?

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  2. 5'11 neo-fish ('the red rocker') shaped by Tom Scott (you met him last year at WP).

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