Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Ghosts of Christmas Past

I'll take Thanksgiving over Christmas any day. Bigger surf and smaller commercialism.

All the same, I have some pretty awesome memories of being a grom and being really stoked on Christmas - like 1987 here when I got my first subscription to a surf magazine. (Also note awesome Christmas Card I made on the window behind me).

Who could have imagined that 20 years down the line I'd be involved in bullshit like this?


Click here for CJ Hobgood's interview of my boring ass:
http://www.blog.thegoodss.com/
By far the best thing about the interview is that CJ gave proper respect to Haley:


Loved CJ's caption: "Haley does more tricks than some of the dudes on tour."

Anyway Christmas is about much more than material goods and insulting pro surfers - so mostly I'm stoked to have some good memories of Christmases Past with friends, family, dogs, and surf.
Here's a handful of shots from a trip exactly 10 years ago - Shayne, Sander, John B and I all came up to Norcal and had a good break from the dreaded monotony of La Jolla. Might have been the first time Shayne met Makoto - looks like him and Vasco came and surfed RCA with us from the pics.



Shayne had just got a sate-of-the-art new camera and we took a ton of surf shots. I remember looking through that stack a million times back in socal - it seemed like paradise and all I wanted was to move back home and surf my brains out. Well, 10 years later and we've all surfed a bunch of good sessions together over the years up here, often over Christmas break, even as many of us have gotten sidetracked in other places and phases.
We also have picked up some good new team members along the way... Here's to the ghosts of Christmas Past and the ghosts that we've yet to accumulate.

2 comments:

  1. Nice leverage of CJ's blog to promote your UI abilities, always looking for the next gig. Why couldn't CJ use the same font and size? Reading multiple fonts is irritating. Damn he ruined you on your barrel shot though. You should have sent him the version I angled at 15 degrees. I actually enjoyed the interviewed. Pretty interesting stuff. Beat’s 90% of the stuff that major media puts out. The sugarcoating of the industry has really made things boring. Note, I was mildly pissed at the grammatical errors. Why can't CJ use word to auto correct before posting? He can't be that busy.

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  2. poor CJ is in the same personal state that is occupied by distinguished individuals and team members such as Ryan, Makoto, and Avery.

    Meaning he does have time on his hands but rational decision making is often neglected in favor of nurturing one's emotional state.

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