Session number 2 with the GoPro camera - John B and I surfed south lot with a couple other friends. The whole "I have a camera mounted on the nose of my board to record every minute of my oh so important life" thing is inherently a wank... but at the same time, I'm totally hypnotized by the bizarre little combinations of light and liquid that come about. Most of them are unintentional, as the camera shoots every 2 seconds. There's something tremendously reassuring about the concept that there's all these little magic moments going by unnoticed while we surf. I like both sides of the equation -- that there's hidden moments of beauty in our lives, and we simply need to learn how to freeze them for a second longer than instinct allows, so that we can appreciate them, and also the concept that there IS some magic left in surfing, even if it's hard to see sometimes for us lifers, and therefore all the meaningless hours I've dedicated to this pursuit just might mean something after all.
Maybe they mean more than we know at the time - like the fact John B and I haven't surfed together in years (maybe since Oregon in 04?)and we'll probably hold on to a little of today's watery magic for a long time.
JB setting it up B-side
and buried in the foam
On the piano... John B.
My board got some mad barrels without me.
As I howled to the moon in frustration, offshore spray dropping rain
Then I dropped my wallet, larry layback style
The rest of these surf photos are weak, but the water droplets and sky combine for some new perspectives. (Yes, I popped the highlights and did a bit o' processing.)
Great Shots, JB is sorta looking mean with that squid lid and goatee.
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