Saturday, January 17, 2009

From Dawn Till Dusk



The Beach is a notoriously fickle surf spot. Conditions come together for discrete windows, and if you're watching waves going off from the beach, chances are it will be shithouse by the time you reach the lineup.

This is usually the case with outer bar days in particular, as the tide is often only right for a couple hours of daylight. Today that was not the case, as the whole middle of the Beach went off from daybreak to sunset. Unusual tides were part of the magic equation - low in the middle of the day and never over 4'.

Yesterday, forcasted as Day 1 of the Hype Swell, was a complete clusterfuck of kooks on 9' guns riding soft, capping sleigh rides.
Today was another story altogether: Big enough and mean enough to keep out most of the riff-raff. Avery and I enjoyed two sessions usually surfing a peak alone.

Here's some documentation to compare to JB's PacNW photos. Note: I'm not so worried about rubbing it in since most of our readers (Shayne excluded) are not so amped on this particular flavor of abuse.






2 comments:

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  2. I like the shots here with the 'End Pacheco' sign (so urban). Good to hear The Beach still has the venom to kill the crowds. Spent this afternoon getting caught up on all the recent Orphan posts I missed while being offline the last couple weeks. The photos from a Christmas past were classic. Brought back some great memories. - JB

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