This run of surf has pushed my body and my ever-patient significant other to the limit, but emotionally I'm feeling quite good right now, thank you.
I'm now sponsored by Advil due to the fact I've been surfing for hours a day, obsessively, since Thanksgiving (or 1991 depending upon who you talk to).
It's hard to stay away when you rock up in the morning and it looks like this:
Did a bit of GoPro photo-whoring on what was supposed to be the "worst" day of the swell and got a few hook-ups. The wide-angle causes Costanza-style shrinkage to the waves, but the light was cool at least.
I also got my first-ever non-nepotism induced surf shot published, as SurferMag ran Adam Warmington's unidentified shot of me on "my" trusty 7'8".
Maybe Advil will send a photo incentive?
About time you got barreled with that Go Pro. I started to think you were too busy dodging and looking for that desirable OB end bowl air section
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